Kyoto, and the Uji region in particular, are famed for their unique tea culture. Premium green teas, most notably sencha, gyokuro and matcha, have been grown in this area for centuries. Blessed with frequent fogs and fertile soils, the region offers the ideal climatic conditions for growing green tea. Together with the area’s long tradition of painstaking cultivation techniques, this all adds up to excellence. Little wonder that Uji tea enjoys such an outstanding reputation both within Japan and around the world.
The Yugen Teahouse—Uniting tradition and modernity
On our most recent trip to Japan, my family and I paid a visit to the Yugen Tea House, which is tucked away in a quiet corner of Kyoto, not far from the Imperial Palace. As soon as you step inside this outwardly unremarkable four-story building, you find yourself entering a space that bridges the gap between ancient tradition and the modern world. The minimalist interior is a calming blend of warm wood shades and pared-back aesthetics. But the main focus here is on tea—and exquisite tea at that.
The space—part ceramics concept store, part tea house—has a tranquil, almost meditative vibe. Here, among a choice selection of ceramics, hand-made papers and fragrant tins of teas, we were invited to participate in a tea tasting that was as playful as it was profound. Our tasting journey took us from floral gyokuro to strong, earthy hōjicha to a slightly fermented specialty we had never before encountered.
The first floor of Yugen houses a curated assortment of premium Japanese teas, particularly single-origin senchas from a number of the country’s tea-growing regions. Each reflecting the terroir of their region of origin, these meticulously processed teas are truly exceptional. At the tasting, I sampled several different varieties, from the delicate flavor and subtle sweetness of a Kagoshima sencha to the umami-rich depth of a gyokuro from Uji. The precision employed in the preparation of each tea was nothing short of awe-inspiring: The temperature, brewing time and water quantities were always perfectly coordinated to maximize the aromas of the teas.
A multi-sensory tasting experience
The preparation of each tea was guided by principles that are deeply rooted in Japanese tea culture. In the traditional tea ceremony, an intrinsic part of Chado (“The Way of Tea”), aesthetics, mindfulness and hospitality merge into a harmonious experience. Each step—from the pouring of the water with a wooden hishaku ladle to the purposeful lifting and turning of the bowl before the first sip is taken—is an exercise in precision and appreciation. Though our own tasting was not held in a formal ceremonial room, the spirit of this centuries-old art was palpable throughout. Our host prepared each infusion with calm, flowing, almost choreographed movements.
Sweet treats and an unexpected friendship
The teas were accompanied by a delectable lineup of sweet specialties: shiruko—a warm silky-smooth sweet chestnut porridge with stuffed yeasted dumplings, or goma dango—sesame-coated rice flour balls with a velvety adzuki bean stuffing. Our host explained the different aromas of the teas and their ideal food pairings. While we parents were busy indulging ourselves, our four-year-old daughter lost no time in making friends with our host. A conversation about Paw Patrol characters soon unfolded between the teapots in a linguistic hodgepodge of German, English and Japanese.
Our last visit to Japan was in 2019/2020, just before the outbreak of the pandemic. Mindful of the fact that this time, we would have a four-year-old in tow, we had been careful to manage our expectations. But as it turned out, we were astounded by the warm-hearted welcome our daughter received from Japanese restaurateurs. She opened many doors for us—both literally and metaphorically. “Kawaiiii!” (the Japanese word for “cute”) was probably the word she heard most often. This warmth greeted us almost everywhere we went, but our spontaneous tea tasting in Yugen, where tea is celebrated as a cultural experience, had to be one of the most unforgettable moments of our trip.
More than just tea—A cultural encounter
One special highlight came right at the end: The top floors of the building are both an elegant venue for traditional tea ceremonies and a gallery for changing art and design exhibitions. Here, we could browse to our heart’s content—the perfect close to our tasting experience. Yugen harmoniously intertwines the past and the present, conveying Japanese tea culture in a new and inspiring way. The ultimate insider tip for visitors to Kyoto!
Text and image: Sonja Pham
Sonja Pham (www.sonjapham.com) is a free-lance journalist and deputy editor-in-chief of the Grafikmagazin trade journal. Her many years working in the food service sector have left her with a deep passion for coffee, cake and all things culinary. Images for this article courtesy of © Duy Anh Pham.
